Now that it’s summer, we are proud to be wearing our Red Wing Handsewns, which are unlike any other moccasin available today.  True moccasin constructed shoes are hard to come by these days but that’s exactly what our Red Wing Handsewns are – constructed solely by hand and made entirely in the United States. We have proudly been collaborating with Rancourt and Co for over a year now on the construction of our Handsewn Collection. Located in Maine, Rancourt hand sews our collection using century-old techniques that have been passed down from generation to generation through firsthand experience.

When it comes down to making a Genuine Handsewn traditional, handcrafted techniques are what makes our Handsewns different. The process begins with the assembly of the upper. At this time, the leather, pattern, fit, and sewing components are all selected. The leather is soaked in a solution of hot water and leather conditioner, kept at 130 degrees Fahrenheit. The leather is soaked anywhere from 30 seconds to 2 minutes, making the hide soft and easier to bend around the shoe form, or last.

Now it is time for the shoe to take form. The upper is tacked and stretched onto the last, forming the initial shape of the shoe. The plug and vamp, which form the upper of the shoe, are stitched together using an awl, two needles, and waxed thread. The needle holes are not pre-punched into the leather, but are made with the awl as the shoecrafter sews the pieces together, making our shoes Genuine Handsewns.   The upper, still on the last, goes through the drying process, which allows the leather to set and mold to the shape of the last. The uppers are dried with a hot hair dryer for two to three hours and then cooled for 24 to 36 hours, depending on the Handsewn model.

Once the leather has dried the bottom of the upper and the out sole are prepped and attached to each other. The out sole is then trimmed and buffed and the Genuine Handsewn is ready for the final touches. The upper is cleaned and conditioned with waxes, oils, and creams that moisturizes and enhances the leather’s surface. Once the laces are added, the Handsewn is ready for its final inspection!